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What does pre-approved mean?

By AAA Capital Funding, Inc.Reviewed by Jason J. Sarji, NMLS #374700Updated October 21, 20263 min read
Short answerPre-approved means a lender has pulled your credit, reviewed your income and asset documents and run your application through underwriting rules to set the price and loan amount you qualify for. It's conditional: the home still has to appraise and pass final underwriting, and your income, debts and credit need to stay the same until closing.

When a seller's agent asks if you're pre-approved, they want to know that a lender has already checked the things that sink most deals: credit, income, debts and cash. A pre-approval letter says a lender has looked at real documents and run your numbers through the same underwriting rules it will use on the loan. It names a price, a loan program and a down payment, and it makes your offer one a Florida seller can take seriously.

Pre-approval and pre-qualification are different steps

Pre-qualificationPre-approval
CreditSometimes checked, sometimes self-reportedPulled from all three bureaus
IncomeWhat you tell the lenderPay stubs, W-2s or tax returns reviewed
AssetsWhat you tell the lenderBank statements reviewed
UnderwritingA quick estimateRun through automated underwriting (FHA's TOTAL Scorecard or Fannie Mae's Desktop Underwriter)
Weight with a sellerLightStrong

The Consumer Financial Protection Bureau points out that lenders don't all use these two words the same way. What counts is what the lender actually verified, so ask. A letter backed by a full credit report, documents and an automated approval is the one worth carrying into a showing.

What the lender reviews

  • Credit: a tri-merge report pulls all three bureaus, and the lender uses your middle score.
  • Income: usually 30 days of pay stubs and two years of W-2s, or two years of tax returns if you're self-employed.
  • Assets: two months of bank statements showing the down payment and closing costs, or a gift letter if family is helping.
  • Debts: every monthly payment on your credit report, set against your gross income to get your debt-to-income ratio (DTI).

How the pre-approval amount is set

Take a buyer earning $5,500 a month with $400 a month in other debts, buying with FHA and 3.5% down at a 5.75% rate, taxes at about 0.90% of the price and insurance at $283 a month. FHA's automated limits allow a housing payment up to 46.9% of income and total debts up to 56.9%.

LimitMathMaximum housing payment
Housing ratio46.9% × $5,500$2,579.50
Total ratio56.9% × $5,500 − $400 of debts$2,729.50
Lower of the two$2,579.50

A $2,579.50 full payment matches an FHA price of about $331,700. That's the number on the letter.

The program on the letter matters, because each one draws its lines in a different place. For the same buyer, Conventional's 50% total limit allows $2,750 − $400 = $2,350 for housing, before PMI pricing by credit score comes in. VA uses 41% total as a guide, or $1,855 for housing here, and goes higher when the buyer's residual income (the money left each month after the payment, debts and living costs) clears VA's table. USDA caps housing at 29%, or $1,595. That's why a good pre-approval runs every program and names the one that buys the most home.

Now say the buyer finances a car for $450 a month a week after getting the letter. Debts rise to $850, the total ratio now allows only $3,129.50 − $850 = $2,279.50 for housing, and the price drops to about $288,400. One car payment cost about $43,300 of buying power. That's why lenders tell you to hold off on new credit until after closing.

What happens after the letter

Once you're under contract, the lender orders the appraisal and title work and sends the full application to an underwriter. You'll get a conditional approval listing any final items, such as an updated pay stub or a letter explaining a deposit. When those are in, the loan is clear to close. The things that can change a pre-approval along the way are the ones you control: a new debt, a job change, a large deposit you can't document or a missed payment. Keep everything steady and the letter holds up.

To see the price your income supports before you apply, use the home affordability calculator. When you're ready for a letter to put with an offer, call AAA Capital Funding at 888-601-8344 and we'll pull credit, review your documents and issue a full pre-approval.

Terms on this page: Pre-approval, Pre-qualification, Conditional approval, Tri-merge credit report

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What buyers ask next

Does getting pre-approved hurt my credit?
The credit check shows as one hard inquiry, which usually moves a score only a few points. Mortgage inquiries made close together while you shop are generally scored as a single inquiry.
How long is a pre-approval good for?
The letter carries an expiration date, commonly 60 to 90 days, because credit reports, pay stubs and bank statements age. If you're still shopping after that, the lender refreshes the documents and reissues the letter.
Is a pre-approval a guarantee I'll get the loan?
No. It's a conditional approval of you as a borrower. The final approval comes after the appraisal, the title work and a last check of your income, debts and credit.

Sources

  1. CFPB, What's the difference between a prequalification letter and a preapproval letter?
  2. HUD Handbook 4000.1, Single Family Housing Policy Handbook
  3. Fannie Mae Selling Guide B3-6-02, Debt-to-Income Ratios

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